I will explain the way I work. But also provide links to sites and people working in a different or a more similar way.
I've not invented anything, I just put together a way of working and testing from all the information that is out there. Having a background in photography, etching, screen printing and a bit of copper photogravure helped a lot.
Showing posts with label exposure. Show all posts
Showing posts with label exposure. Show all posts

Sunday, 5 April 2015

Double exposure

Exposure, developing and positive film curves, all matter in getting a good end result. You should be consistent in every department, practice until you are comfortable enough to adjust your work on sight.

First we will tackle the exposure time or better times. I use a double exposure, because in my opinion the best results are reached this way. For the first exposure a stochastic screen is used, and for the second we use the positive film of the image we want to print. Some people combine the image and stochastic screen in photoshop (using the bitmap / diffuse dithering function) to end up with only one exposure. This will not give you the best results, you'll get a more grainy look.

The stochastic screen;
a halftone screen based on pseudo-random distribution of halftone dots, first used in the seventies. For a more technical explanation go here.


The stochastic screen eliminates the moiré effect in multiple colour printing. It allows us to print photographic images without the annoying effect of the dotted screen. If well performed you will end up with a print very close to the original picture, but with the advantage that you can digitally work with the image. You will be able to choose papers and colours, and when printed with traditional oil based inks on the right paper it will be an everlasting image.

The positive film;
The selected image will be printed on an inkjet printer. It will be printed as a positive image, and it will be the same size as the resulting print. Because it will be a contact exposure. There will be more on the positive film later.

Why we need the double exposure? The stochastic screen will prepare our polymer plate so it will be able to produce a wide tonal range, from deep black to subtle whites, without losing detail.

In the graphic below you will notice that the polymer plate exposed without the stochastic screen isn't able to produce the dark parts. The ink will only stick to the sides of the black volumes in your print. In the intaglio etching process the aquatint technique is applied to create this result, this results in holding the ink in  place as the plate is wiped.

 
Once you are familiar with the polymer process, you can try out different screens.

Friday, 27 March 2015

The vacuum frame, or not..

 Rotating vacuum frame, often used by screen printers.

Having a vacuum frame makes things easy, but it is not a necessity. Exposure units often come with a vacuum frame, they are very useful, certainly for the bigger format polymer plates. But there are other, and cheaper solutions.

Exposure unit with vacuum frame.



Small polymer plates can be exposed, fixed between two glass sheets using clamps.



Or you can use  a board, foam backing and a heavy glass sheet.



you can use a contact printing frame.



There a several diy projects out there to make your own vacuum frame. Here are a few:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V22KWUwIn5A
https://www.flickr.com/photos/48428440@N04/sets/72157623645144972/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WJn5YFANxU


The one thing you should accomplish is a very good contact between your positive film and the polymer plate. Otherwise, you will lose the fine detail, and sharp contours.